Should You Replace Your T8 Fluorescent Lamps with T8 LED Tubes? (updated)

For years, lighting indoor commercial spaces was a no-brainer. Most folks simply went with linear fluorescent lights (LFLs) — and for good reason. They have quality light output, are one of the most efficient light sources available, and have decent lifespans. This is especially true of the T8 lamps, which use about 40% less energy than the older, now phased-out T12 lamps. That being said, now there is a new player in the commercial lighting arena that promises even better efficiency: the linear LED replacement (T8 LED).

Tell us about your fluorescent lighting application and we will suggest an LED alternative!

LED T8 Linear Tube Lighting

Does the T8 LED really have what it takes to make it worth swapping out your tried-and-true LFLs? To help you decide, take a look at some of the benefits of T8 LEDs:

Mercury Free – Unlike fluorescents, LEDs contain no mercury. This makes them safe for the environment.

Dimmable – Many LEDs have full dimming capabilities, whereas fluorescents are expensive to dim and do so poorly.

Directional Lighting – LEDs offer directional light (illumination exactly where you need it). On the other hand, fluorescents have multi-directional light, which means some light is lost in the fixture and other unnecessary places.

Works Well with Controls – Fluorescent lights tend to burn out faster when integrated with occupancy sensors and other controls. In contrast, LEDs work perfectly with control systems, since their life is not affected by turning them on/off.

Better Efficiency – The newest T8 LEDs are around 30% more efficient than T8 LFLs.

Quality Light ­- Today’s LEDs produce light in a variety of color temperatures similar to fluorescent, but don’t have any flickering issues that can happen with fluorescent.

Lifespan – The average life of a T8 LED is 50,000 hours, versus only 30,000 hours for an average T8 LFL.

Shatterproof (potentially)  – Most T8 LED tubes are made with a shatterproof coating. With linear fluorescent, you either had to specially order shatterproof fluorescent lamps or use a tube guard which was costly.

The only major downside with T8 LEDs is the upfront cost, but with rebates, tax incentives, and energy savings, you might see an ROI faster than you’d expect. It’s important to crunch the numbers for your particular situation to see if the initial expense makes sense for your business. Premier Lighting can help you with a cost/benefit analysis and ensure you consider all factors when deciding between LFL and LED.

If you find that you’re leaning towards retrofitting your linear fluorescents with T8 LEDs, you have several different options…

LED Linear Tube Options

There are three primary types of LED T8s on the market suitable for retrofits and one type that is a combination of two types. Primarily they are differentiated by how they interact with existing fluorescent ballasts. All fluorescent tubes need ballasts to operate, but not all LEDs do. Fluorescent lights require a high voltage burst to get started and then something to regulate the power that comes to the tube — the ballast takes care of all of this. On the other hand, LEDs use a driver which comes in a variety of sizes making several options available.

In an effort to make LED T8s fit into existing linear fluorescent fixtures (for retrofit purposes), manufacturers have come up with a couple different ways of dealing with the unnecessary ballasts. These solutions include bypassing the existing ballast, removing it, or working with it.

To determine what kind of LED T8 might work for your application, consider the pros and cons of each type available today:

Type A: LED tube has an Integrated Driver that Operates on Existing Fluorescent Ballast (aka Direct Fit, Instant Fit)

How it Works

Type A LED tubes have an internal driver that makes it possible for the lights to operate on existing fluorescent ballasts. They plug directly in place of the existing fluorescent lamp.


Super-easy installation – Just switch out the old fluorescent tubes for LEDs, and you’re done. No other modifications are required, but you must make sure your ballast is compatible with the LED T8 tubes you are trying to install.

Varying Light levels/energy consumption – Fluorescent ballasts have varying ballast factors and since this type uses the existing fluorescent ballast, the wattage and lumen output will vary by ballast factor. Thus giving you the ability to increase or decrease energy consumption and light levels easily by using different ballasts.


Shorter lifespans – The life of Type A LEDs is dependent on the longevity of the ballast. This can result in more maintenance costs as compared to other LEDs, since you may need to replace the ballast before you’ve reached the lifetime of the LED.

Not compatible with all linear fluorescent ballasts – Compatibility varies, so check that the make and model of your current fluorescent fixtures are acceptable. Traditionally the Type A LED tube only worked on instant start electronic ballasts, however as technology has advanced, many now operate on program start and dimming ballasts. Some even claim to work on T12 or T8 magnetic ballasts.

Not as efficient – Some power is lost from integration with the ballast. Also, dimming and other types of energy-saving functionalities are limited.

T8 LED Tubes for existing fluorescent ballast from GE

Type B: LED tube has an Internal Driver and is Wired to Main Voltage Bypassing the Existing Fluorescent Ballast (aka Bypass, Internal Driver)

How it Works

With Type B LED Tubes, the ballasts are removed from the fixture or bypassed, and the sockets are wired directly to the line voltage. To confuse matters more there are single-end wired Type B tubes and double-end wired Type B tubes. With single-end wired Type B tubes, one socket end has the line voltage and the other end is there to hold the lamp in place. Many fluorescent fixtures have shunted sockets, so often times you will need to replace the line voltage socket to a non-shunted socket with single-ended tubes. There are pre-wired socket kits available that make this work a lot easier. With double-end wired Type B tubes, there is most often no need to change the sockets as shunted sockets are okay to use, which makes install easier. The issue with double-end wired Type B led tubes is safety. By having both ends wired directly to the line voltage, you risk electrical shock/hazard. Because of that most Type B LED tubes are single-end wired.


No power loss – Unlike Type A bulbs, these LEDs are more efficient, since no power is wasted in the ballast.

Less long term maintenance costs – By eliminating the ballast you have one less part to maintain in the future.

Options – Type B has the most options in terms of bulb length (2′ to 8′) and assortment of wattage/lumen packages, specifically for the 4′ options.


Electrical modifications are required – Modifications include removing the ballasts, replacing the sockets (possibly), and connecting fixture input wires to the sockets. Strict safety measures are necessary as installers could be exposed to main voltage while connecting sockets to power wires.

Limited dimming – Most manufacturers do not offer a dimmable option but there are some Type B dimmable LED tubes that run on 120V dimmers.

Buy GE T8 LED with internal driver

Type C: LED tube has an External Driver (aka Remote Driver)

How it Works

Unlike Type B tubes that have an internal driver, Type C lights use an external (remote) driver to power the LED. The ballasts are removed, which means electrical modifications are still required. However, the operation is safer, since the low-voltage driver is hooked to the sockets and not the line voltage. One driver can power multiple LED tubes. This system is similar to how LFLs operate now (ballast and lamps).


Most efficient – Type C’s are more efficient than any other T8 LED tube.

Highly compatible – Virtually any fluorescent fixture can be modified to work with these lights.

Increased functionality – They are dimmable and work wonderfully with lighting control systems.


Most Expensive Option – Similar to Type B tubes, these lights require more extensive installation and also cost more because you are buying more parts. However, you can recoup some of this cost through the tubes’ efficiency and by using energy-saving control systems.

Type C T8 LED Tubes w/ External Drivers

Chart Comparing the 3 Primary Options

Here are the advantages and disadvantages of different T8 LED Tubes

If you are not sure which option is best for you and want some flexibility, you might consider going with a Type D LED Tube (combo of Type A and Type B).

Type D: LED tube can work off an existing compatible ballast and also off direct line voltage (combo of Type A and Type B)

How it Works

With Type D LED tubes you can install them with your current compatible ballast in place (Type A), and when/if the ballast burns out you can bypass that and wire the fixture to direct line voltage (Type B).


Operating Options – You can pay less upfront on install costs and still know that you can always bypass the ballast when/if that becomes an issue.


Difficulty complying with UL – All LED Type B tubes should come with a label that you need to put on the fixture explaining that the fixture has been modified and the tube is working off direct line voltage. If you go with the Type A/Type B option and use the ballast until it fails then go directly to line voltage, you won’t have the fixture labeled correctly unless the person doing the work remembers to get a label and place it in the fixture.

Higher cost than other options – Because Type D LED tubes have both Type A and Type B operating features, the cost per bulb is generally higher than Type A and Type B tubes.

Potential maintenance headaches – If you opt for a Type D LED tube it is likely in the future that you will have some fixtures wired for Type B and some for Type A, which makes it difficult to keep track of what might be causing future failures (ballast or tube).

Overall the Type D LED tube is a nice option to have, but we feel it makes the most sense to pick one of the 3 primary types of LED tubes.

Combo Drive Type D LED

Other Considerations

No matter what type of LED T8 tube you choose, there are some other important things to keep in mind before making a purchase:

Warranty – Some LED T8 tubes only come with a three-year or less warranty. Big Box retailers sell tubes with a 90 day warranty (in fine print). Don’t waste your time and money on those. Instead, opt for a tube with a five-year, DLC-approved warranty.

Voltage – Pay attention to the voltage listed on the light’s packaging. Some LED tubes are specified for 120 or 277 volts or can only handle a max of 240 volts. Cover your bases by getting a LED T8 system rated for 120-277 volts.

Emergency Fluorescent Lighting Systems – If you have emergency lighting built in to your fluorescent fixtures, the only LED tube option that might work with the existing is Type A. For our analysis of the best emergency options for these fixtures, check out our article on LED Replacements for Fluorescent Emergency Lighting.

Existing Fixture Condition or Location – If your current light fixtures are in bad shape or in the wrong location, it might make sense to go with an LED Retrofit Kit or LED fixture instead of LED tubes.

Ultimately, the efficiency, long life, and functionalities of T8 LEDs make them worthy of potentially replacing standard T8 fluorescent tubes. Of course, every situation is different, so analyze your setup with an expert before making a purchase. Premier Lighting has the expertise to provide you with the best recommendation for your application. We offer a variety of T8 LED lamps as well as T8 linear fluorescent lamps to choose from and will help you decide which type works best for you.

So contact us today or go ahead and check out the various LED options mentioned above on our LED lighting website. You can also tell us about your Fluorescent T8 application by filling out our questionnaire and providing information about what you have and what you are looking to do. We will provide a detailed plan to retrofit your linear fluorescents to LED.

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162 Responses to “Should You Replace Your T8 Fluorescent Lamps with T8 LED Tubes? (updated)”

  1. AidenJune 26, 2014 at 10:38 pm #

    What is the temperature for T8 LED & T8 fluorescent when they are turned on? Does LED will have a significant advantage in this respect?

    • SteveOctober 29, 2014 at 9:26 am #

      I’m not sure about the exact temperature but LEDs are significantly cooler to the touch.

    • JohnMarch 16, 2015 at 1:22 pm #

      We are trialing LED tubes and are fortunate to have a thermal camera. Between the T8 and the LED. The LED was 20degrees farh cooler after running for a half hour.

      • LuisJune 22, 2016 at 3:23 pm #

        did you consider the temperature generated by the ballast ?

        • JohnJune 22, 2016 at 3:30 pm #

          Hello Luis
          Yes we stripped down the cover over the ballast and did multiple scans with both setups and did an average. The ballast temp seemed to change very slightly in favour of LED but I would not say enough to way into a return on investment.

  2. Evelyn JohnsonAugust 5, 2014 at 2:19 pm #

    I have 22 single T12’s in my house that I would like to replace. My husband installed them 30 years ago and is capable of doing the work to replace the lights. I am confused as what I should opt for. Dimmable not important. Current T12’s are Cool White. I want to stay with a white light but not bright white. Plan on living here for maybe ten more years so won’t recover costs.

    Looking for advice.

    • Dale JohnsonApril 8, 2015 at 5:44 pm #

      There are no LED tubes to my knowledge that operate on the ballast that your existing T12 lamps run on.
      My suggestion is that your husband replace the existing ballast(s) with remote drivers for LED T8’s that are compatible with them. GE has a nice matched set that would do a splendid job in your home. The color temperature you would most likely be happy with is 4,000K. The driver for the LEDs is either for one lamp or two.

      • CheriOctober 14, 2015 at 2:01 pm #

        I have (4) 8′ T8 fluorescents and (2) 4′ T8 fluorescents in a 2 1/2 year old house. They are creating quite a bit of dirty electricity when I meter my sockets. I am interested in replacing them with LED but not sure of the best type for the lowest production of DE? Preferably ones without a transformer? Any help would be appreciated.

        • PremierOctober 14, 2015 at 2:16 pm #

          Hi Cheri,

          Sent you an email with some advice and purchasing options. Let me know what you think!



          • CaroleJuly 28, 2016 at 10:35 am #

            Hi, could you send me this information as well? Would like to get best options to decrease dirty electricity by switching out 4′ T8 fluorescents. Thanks!

          • Ray GunsaulisAugust 12, 2017 at 12:07 pm #

            I would like this email also. The reason we are think about the change is we live a rural area and have weak TV signals on some channels. Now with fluorescent lights will not let us watch a few channels.

          • ScottOctober 23, 2018 at 4:11 pm #

            Hey there,

            I have two double 4’ T8 ballasts in my garage that I’d like to use T8 led bulbs in. I replaced one ballast with led bulbs and 3/4 of both bulbs burnt out upon turning on. I replaced the other ballast with two other led bulbs and they work fine. What am I doing wrong?…

    • LuisJune 22, 2016 at 3:30 pm #

      Things have change, you can find now very inexpensive T-8 LED light ( No more T-12 )
      that will replace what you have, I just bought some for $ 7.00 including shipping, in your case buy type A so no rewiring is needed stay with 3000 to 3500 K pretty much same kind of light you have now

      • LuisJune 22, 2016 at 3:52 pm #

        Correction you will have to direct wire to the new T-8 since there is no LED tube that works with T-12 ballast ” to my knowledge” Sorry

        • shyneApril 23, 2017 at 6:24 pm #

          My shop has t12 and t8 as the 12s died .
          replaced all bulbs today with t8 led and they all work great .
          even the ballasts that no longer could start a t12 ran the led .

    • Michael D GreenleeOctober 25, 2017 at 12:12 pm #

      Go to a lighting store and choose fixtures with lights that create the atmosphere that you want to portray for your living environment. Each room should have the fixtures and bulbs that are pleasing for that room. Get your husband to put a crow bar to his wallet and move up to the present day.

  3. RahaAugust 6, 2014 at 8:54 pm #

    What is the length of this LED tube? Do you have an equivalent LED tube to your F48T12 CW fluorescent tube? Please let me know at your earliest convenience. Thank you.

  4. VIC CHINSOMBOONAugust 16, 2014 at 8:16 pm #

    need to replace existing T8 may be type C how to wire and additional hardware.

  5. Paul CooperSeptember 18, 2014 at 11:06 pm #

    I would like a quote for 1200mm and 1500mm fluro tubes and the same in LED

  6. Burt KemelharSeptember 19, 2014 at 2:33 pm #

    Could you e-mail me info on all LED tubes that you have available for use without a ballast.

    • Premier LightingSeptember 20, 2014 at 7:53 am #

      Sounds like you are interested in the Type B’s (wired direct, no ballast). They are very efficient and a much better long-term option than the Type A’s.

      Here is the pertinent info, all on our T8 LED Type B shop page. You will pick a length and the kelvin temp that you desire. From there you will be given various options:

      -DLC-qualified LED T8’s are the most energy efficient you will find along with the best cost. Not every length/kelvin is available in DLC however (only 2′ and 4′).

      -High Output LED T8’s provide more wattage/lumens than the standard or DLC options

      -Rotating End LED T8’s are an option designed for directing the light.

      -Dimmable Rotating End LED T8’s are for those needing a dimming function – these also have a longer lead time than other LED T8’s.

  7. MarkSeptember 20, 2014 at 5:59 am #

    I will definitely try LED T8 tube. Because, fluorescent tubes contain argon gases, which will harmful for our body. So, I should go for LED T8 tube because it is energy efficient and environmentally friendly.

    • SteveOctober 29, 2014 at 9:21 am #

      Correct. Also Mercury. Extremely small amounts though.

      • JamesDecember 8, 2014 at 2:11 pm #

        Argon is not harmful. at all. It’s an inert gas. Please don’t imply that it’s harmful.

        • c barfootDecember 23, 2014 at 10:14 am #

          James is quite right. Argon is not only completely harmless but occurs naturally in air, albeit in small quantities. It is disturbing to see someone erroneously alleging danger in this; maybe he should be worried by the possibility of aero engines dropping out of the skies instead.

  8. Yves BlotOctober 17, 2014 at 8:17 am #

    In my building, they are ten T8 fluorescent tubes, working 24 hours a day, if I change to T8 led tubes, there is no problem about that ?? I have read on internet that the led tubes must be switched off for a few hours a day, because they were not designed to work all day long ????

    I thank you for you comments.

    • GregOctober 17, 2014 at 6:01 pm #

      Hi Yves,

      Thanks for your question. Having LED T8 tubes on 24 hours a day means you will reach your payback point faster (far less energy cost each day the longer they are on). If you read elsewhere that LED T8’s must be shut off for a few hours a day, that may apply to certain LED’s, but not the LED T8 Tubes we sell at our web store.

  9. SteveOctober 29, 2014 at 9:20 am #

    Good article on choosing between LED and Fluorescent for your Office Lighting Application

  10. Alex PowellNovember 10, 2014 at 6:47 am #

    Very Inspiring and Informative post. I would like to ask you one thing. Whether the Type B LED tubes come with any fixtures or not.

    According to my viewpoint T8 LED Tube lights are far more efficient than the incandescents, as it can save up to 80% of our energy and also having a longer life span.

    • GregNovember 10, 2014 at 10:54 am #

      Type B LED Tubes do not come with a fixture.

  11. NeilNovember 10, 2014 at 12:00 pm #

    Do you offer any price breaks on large quantity orders?

    • GregNovember 10, 2014 at 12:33 pm #

      Hello Neil,

      To answer your question, yes we sometimes give price breaks if the orders are large. I will email you to see exactly what your needs are.

      Thanks for the inquiry!

  12. APNovember 13, 2014 at 10:43 am #

    How to dimmer the LED lights. Do I need new wiring?

    • GregNovember 13, 2014 at 11:42 am #

      Depends on the bulb. Are we talking a T8 LED? A Type C for example would need a dimming driver.

      Dimming T8 bulbs aren’t much more expensive than regular ones, however they are generally custom made from the manufacturer so they a) have a longer lead time and b) must be ordered in high quantities to warrant custom production (like 25-50 minimum order).

  13. Bill WarrenNovember 16, 2014 at 4:01 am #

    What type of dimmer do you recommend for a retrofit with type A LED tube lights where existing fluorescents are T-8 electronic?

    • GregNovember 17, 2014 at 9:50 am #

      There are no Type A’s with dimming unfortunately. Because Type A tubes use the existing fluorescent ballasts, any kind of additional controls like dimming are not possible.

      So you can still do a Type A retrofit since you have existing fluorescent electronic T8s. If you really want dimming functionality you would have to look at Type B Tubes or Type C Tubes.

      As mentioned in the comment above yours, Type B LED T8s can be custom ordered with dimming. However the lead time is 4-6 weeks and minimum bulb quantity is set at 50.

      Type C T8s require purchase of a dimming driver. There is no minimum quantity order amount for these and they will be in stock late November early December. So this is probably your best bet for an LED T8 Dimming setup.

  14. VicNovember 16, 2014 at 8:05 pm #

    For type C, there is a driver that can control 4 tubes. But using the web site, I am unable to order 4 tubes without getting 4 separate drivers for them. I thought I should only need the one driver in that case.

    • GregNovember 17, 2014 at 12:17 pm #

      Hello Vic,

      Thank you for your comment and alerting us of this issue – we just tested and confirmed it was forcing extra drivers into the shopping cart. So we took off the “bundling” of the Type C’s tubes and now you can order the tubes and drivers separately. This way you can order four of the Type C T8 LED tubes and then one of the 4-lamp dimming drivers.

      One thing to keep in mind – the 2-lamp and 4-lamp dimming drivers won’t be available for a few weeks. If you don’t mind the lead time then order it and we will send them as soon as they come in.

      Thanks again and any other questions let us know!

  15. FrankNovember 23, 2014 at 12:37 pm #

    Would like to install soffit lighting using dimming LED’s. Not a retro-fit I need fixtures and everything necessary. I wish to have only a single bulb per 4 foot section, will require 5 bulbs end-to-end.

    The power source will be taken from what currently drives recessed canned lights on a dimmer switch.

    I’m guessing the LED dimmer has to be separate from existing and it may be better to eliminate existing dimmer and forego dimming LEDs altogether.

    Are you able to provide a package to handle all this?



    • GregNovember 24, 2014 at 8:58 am #

      Hello Frank,

      Thanks for your message at Tried emailing you but it bounced back – you must have put an incorrect email address when you commented here. Anyway, we think we have a solution that might work for your situation – let us know if we are understanding things correctly from your end.

      Since you want only 1 bulb per fixture, we could get you five 4ft 1-lamp strip fixtures. In terms of the LED bulbs you would use in there, if you wish to use dimming you would want the Type C tubes – T8 LED Tubes with Drivers. These Type C LED tubes cost more than the Type A and Type B but they are the most efficient and have extra functionality like dimming thanks to the drivers that are required to run these bulbs. Does all this sound like what you had in mind?

      If you decide you don’t need dimming we could get you Type B LED T8s for the fixtures which are cheaper and don’t require a driver to hook up to the fixture; they screw directly into the socket. There are a few more options for Type B’s like whether you want a High Output, DLC rated (very efficient energy-wise) or Rotating End tube.

      Any other questions or thoughts just let us know! You can comment here or email us back at info at premierltg dot com.

  16. donald brownNovember 25, 2014 at 7:18 pm #

    I nave a standard 4′ fluoresant bulb fixture in my show car trailer. It operates on ac
    current. If In convert it to led B or C system what size dc to ac converter will i need to operate with my 12 volt system? fhanks

    • GregNovember 26, 2014 at 12:50 pm #

      Hmm, interesting. I don’t believe the inverter size would be an issue. The problems come in with the sine wave. An inverter will change the direct current to a sine wave – square wave or modified sine wave.

      Non-dimming LED lamps do not work well when the sine wave is messed with. It is possible that a dimming LED T8 might work for you. That said I would call technical customer service at GE (manufacturer of our Type C LED T8s) and see if they can confirm that your inverter will work with their Type C LED Tubes w/ dimming driver before you purchase.

  17. JohnDecember 3, 2014 at 8:22 pm #

    in my store, i have t8 Fluorescent. now i want to change to t8 led, do i need to change tombstone? please, let me know. thank you

    • GregDecember 4, 2014 at 8:27 am #

      Hello John,

      The only time you would need to replace the tombstones would be if you use Type B LED T8 tubes (and we include the tombstones for free with each order of Type B LED T8 Tubes).

      Type A does not require new tombstones since you are just switching the bulbs. Type C does not either as that just replaces the fluorescent ballast with an LED ballast, but does not do anything with the tombstones.

  18. brenda mac neilDecember 12, 2014 at 6:57 am #

    I am not sure on other commercial buildings but in my case In (nursing homes ) home for the aged we have Fire regulations which state a light fixture cannot be altered in any way or it disqualifies our electrical rating CSA or equivalent . Question Does retro fitting T8 florescent to LED breach fire regulations electrical inspections

    • GregDecember 13, 2014 at 10:55 am #

      We have not encountered this in our commercial installations. However I would bet it could vary based on which state you are in (we are Minnesota-based).

  19. vincentDecember 16, 2014 at 10:52 pm #

    in our school we have a suspended ceiling with 8 double neons, one question if replaced by led tubes the starters have to be removed isnt it !?
    what re ur price and do u deliver to indonesia 😉

  20. Jim PapritanJanuary 3, 2015 at 11:32 am #

    How does the quality of light of a T8 Florescent Tube (2800 Lumens) compare with T8 Type B LED Tube (1600 Lumens)?

    • GregJanuary 4, 2015 at 9:11 am #

      Hello Jim,

      With a fluorescent tube the lumens are delivered in 360 degrees, so lumens get lost in the fixture. With an LED tube the lumens are delivered in more of a directional pattern 180-275 degrees so lumens don’t get lost in the fixture. That’s why T8 LED tubes typically have lower measured lumens, but they produce the same quality and quantity of light.

  21. LEDJanuary 7, 2015 at 3:29 am #

    Very useful article.Thank you.

  22. HugoJanuary 8, 2015 at 7:19 am #

    I manufacture linear lighting for outdoor signs.
    I sold LED linear lights to one of my customer in Michigan back in september
    I use T8 LED bulbs 20W (4′) & 14W (3′)
    The lights were working fine until end of December. The LED bulbs starting flickering like christmas light. I believe it might be from the cold as it was getting close to 0F in Michigan around that time, but my lLED T8 bulbs state they’ll work down to -4F.
    Any possible ideas on why this flickering could occur, knowing they had worked perfectly fine for 3 months prior to this issue.
    Also the customer has them on a time if that could affect it.
    I have never had this problem before and have been selling LED fixtures for over 5 years now.
    Looking forward to your enlightenment,
    Thanks in advance,

    • HugoJanuary 8, 2015 at 7:20 am #

      Also, LED being used in my fixtures would be referenced as Type B from your article. They are connected straight from the source through the sockets.

    • GregMarch 10, 2015 at 7:35 am #

      Sorry for the late response on this, Hugo. Reading through, I am surprised at your situation. LED does very well in the cold. Possibly the issue is the LED’s that were installed are low quality or defective. What is the brand / part#?

  23. MikeJanuary 13, 2015 at 10:53 pm #

    I am building a new house and I wish to install LED tube lighting in the garage. As I have no fixtures installed, what would be the best type of shop light to install, LED fixtures or a fluorescent fixture with LED tube? I am planning on using 4 X 4′ light fixtures.

    • GregJanuary 14, 2015 at 12:14 pm #

      Sounds fun, Mike. I would plan on just installing an LED-ready fixture instead of retrofitting a fluorescent.

      We have a 4 foot 4 lamp wrap fixture and a 4 foot 2 lamp strip fixture that may suit your needs. Both are LED-ready fixtures.

      As for which T8 LED tubes to choose for the fixture…I would suggest either the 4′ 4100K DLC LED T8 or the 4′ Rotating End 4100K LED T8 Tube. The Rotating End T8 Tubes have a degree mark and a locking mechanism that allows you to direct your light; if that is something important for your application you can get those. We also have 4′ 4100K High Output T8 LED’s but I think the other two options will be more than enough light for you (High Outputs are generally for large commercial shops).

      Ultimately it is your house so just choose what sounds best for you – if there is any other information I can share to help you just let me know!


  24. gregJanuary 24, 2015 at 11:44 pm #

    I have about 50 fluorescent fixtures (about 15 of them are double tubes) in my home which is 20 years old. About 20 of the fixtures are used for 6-8 hours every day and the only upgrades have been tube replacement. I’ve noticed that the ballasts for roughly 20 of the fixtures need replacement and am very interested in changing to LEDs. Any advice on what direction I should pursue would be appreciated, changeout of the entire fixture assembly, removal or changeout of bad ballasts, replacement of the tubes, combination, etc.

    • GregJanuary 26, 2015 at 11:55 am #

      Hello Greg,

      I would definitely suggest you use LED tubes that bypass the use of a fluorescent ballast, as the long-term maintenance costs/hassle are much lower.

      What length are your fluorescent tubes? If they are 4 footers, all you need to do is replace them with an LED Tube that bypasses the ballast (we send non-shunted sockets with every LED tube purchased to ensure these LED tubes fit within your fluorescent fixture).

      Any other questions just let us know!

  25. alan yirrellJanuary 25, 2015 at 3:37 pm #

    I am looking to improve my lighting in my car garage to allow my hobby of woodworking to be undertaken. I currently have 2 x 1500 long florescent T8 fittings on a 2100 high ceiling giving 58 W each and mounted on centreline of garage. Would I be better to get a L E D T8 tubes with mod or buy double tube fittings of existing?

    • GregJanuary 26, 2015 at 12:02 pm #

      Hello Alan,

      We don’t normally deal with Millimeter measurements – so you’re saying your existing fixture has two 4-foot fluorescent T8 lamps?

      If so, I think what might work well for your application would be to get 4′ Rotating End LED T8 Tubes. These allow you to direct your light directly down or however you wanted. LED already balances light much better than fluorescent, as a lot of light is wasted up into the fixture with fluorescent lights.

      If there is anything else I can help explain just let me know.

  26. Scott MicucciJanuary 26, 2015 at 9:59 am #

    Thanks for the article. If you went with the type B installation, do you know what happens if someone comes along and installs a fluorescent lamp in the fixture after it’s been wired with line voltage to the sockets? I’m guessing this will vary depending on whether the new wiring configuration is single ended, or double ended. Just looking to see if anyone has experience with this. Any chance the DLC rating addresses this concern? Thanks!

    • GregJanuary 26, 2015 at 12:04 pm #

      Hi Scott,

      The fluorescent tube will work for a second, and then will completely burn out. It needs a ballast to function. Whether it is DLC or not would not be a factor.


  27. Chip ZuckFebruary 12, 2015 at 8:42 pm #

    Hello. I have a display case that uses a T8 1.5m tube. I am to retro it to LED and was looking at the 22 or 23 watt daylight, 5700-6000K and 2300LM +/-. My question is with tubes rated at 120/277 volt. Will they work at any voltage in between? I will rewire and install un-shunted holder if powered on 1 end only and am faced with either 122 or 199 volt.
    In advance, Thank You.

    • GregFebruary 13, 2015 at 1:41 pm #

      120/277 Volt LED Tubes will indeed work on any voltage between 120 and 277. We do not have any 5700-6000K LED Tubes but we do have a 22 Watt 5000K High Output LED Tube.

      • Chip ZuckFebruary 13, 2015 at 6:58 pm #

        Greg, Thank You bunches with the reply. I was thinking that was the case but really was not sure. 22W @ 5000K should work well & will look at it.
        Thanks again. Chip.

  28. billFebruary 20, 2015 at 4:00 pm #

    My rooms with t8s are wired with switches [2 wire control] and my clients wish now to have dimming. Your link shows 3′ dimmable and non dimmable tubes.
    Can I use a standard dimmer and just install type B dimming tubes? It would save a lot of time and money by not buying dimming fluorescent ballasts and getting a third wire down the wall for control.

    • GregFebruary 20, 2015 at 4:12 pm #

      Hi Bill,

      So the T8’s in your fixture are 3′? We do have dimming with the Type B (bypass ballast) tubes but requests are so rare especially for that size that it requires a minimum order of 25 tubes for the manufacturer to do it. So not sure if that is feasible for your application or not. These tubes do not use a 0-10V dimmer but rather a 120v dimmer.

      What most people are doing now for dimming LED tubes is Type C dimming with a remote dimming driver. GE finally released their 2-lamp and 4-lamp dimming remote drivers that run on any 0-10V dimmer. These are also the most efficient LED tubes on the market, though they cost the most initially up-front. The LED tubes that run on these Type C dimmers are 4′ (only length available).

  29. Jeff DupreMarch 2, 2015 at 2:08 pm #

    Consider using occupancy sensors on each fixture. LED fixtures handle on and off far better than previous lighting sources. In a 50,000 sq foot warehouse, where you may have people wandering through it at random times, the lights can come on and go off as needed and save more $

  30. Jeff DupreMarch 2, 2015 at 2:09 pm #

    Thank you !

  31. Luann FarleyMarch 3, 2015 at 11:59 am #

    I have fluorescent bulbs in closets of my 18 year old home. Can I just buy LED tubes and replace or do I have to replace the fixture itself/

    • GregMarch 3, 2015 at 12:12 pm #

      Hello Luann,

      Indeed you can keep the existing fixtures you have and just get LED tubes to replace the fluorescent.

      If you want a quick and simple install from fluorescent to LED, you can get Type A (Direct Fit) LED Tubes that use the existing fluorescent ballasts you have. This is easiest to install, all you have to do is take out the fluorescent tubes and replace with the new LED tubes. However, this method requires you have fluorescent ballasts which you would have to replace at some point (likely long before the LED tubes die).

      Another option is Type B LED tubes (Bypass Ballast). These hook up directly to line voltage in the fixture – you have to take out the fluorescent tube and cut out the fluorescent ballast. So installation is more involved but the long-term savings is better and you don’t have to worry about replacing a fluorescent ballast.

      Just for reference, most people we work with choose Type B to bypass the ballast for reaping long-term savings and not having the hassle of replacing the ballasts.

      If you have any further questions just let me know! Thanks!

  32. JohnMarch 12, 2015 at 9:20 am #

    I have a fluorescent fixture in which one ballast works with 4 tubes. My question is that can I replace one or two fluorescent tubes with led tubes, because the other fluorescent tubes still working.

    • GregMarch 13, 2015 at 7:04 am #

      Hello John,

      We have actually tested this and found that yes, you can mix and match LED tubes with fluorescent tubes on the same fluorescent ballast. Keep in mind that:

      1 – The LED tubes must be Type A / Direct Fit LED Tubes (work on fluorescent ballast).
      2 – Check whether your fluorescent ballast is Instant Start or Program Start if it is Program Start there is only one option.
      3 – Must be T8 fluorescent not T12 (the existing tubes and ballast).

  33. Srinivasan KMarch 15, 2015 at 11:02 pm #

    I purchased LED Tube light of Phillips make to fit in T8 fixture but I found the tube is flickering. I donot know whether it is defective LED Tube light or I should do some alteration. Phillips have not mentioned whether it is A type or which type. Could you kindly help me to solve the problem.

    • GregMarch 16, 2015 at 7:19 am #


      We would be glad to help. Sounds like possibly an issue with a ballast – maybe you are using an Instant Start LED Tube on a Program Start fluorescent ballast.

      If you can tell us the part# on the ballast in the fixture and the LED tube you got from Philips we can tell you for sure if the problem is what I mentioned above.


  34. michaelMarch 22, 2015 at 11:06 am #

    Hi Greg,
    I have a series of old T12 single light fixtures (24 and 36 inch) whose ballasts are going out. I have been considering either replacing them with T8’s or going LED. As I have to remove the ballast (or fixture) anyway I was thinking that my best option would be to just utilize your Type B LED tubes. My only question is that will they fit in the T12 sockets or do I need to replace those?

    Thank you very much

    • GregMarch 24, 2015 at 1:16 pm #

      Hello Michael,

      Sometimes the existing sockets work, sometimes not. That’s why with every LED tube we sell we send a non-shunted socket along with it just in case to ensure it connects directly into the fixture/line voltage.

  35. ThangMarch 25, 2015 at 7:42 pm #

    The tube led T8 save electricity twice as much as the compact fluorescent

  36. ChungApril 6, 2015 at 4:41 am #

    I donot know whether it is defective LED Tube light or I should do some alteration. Phillips have not mentioned whether it is A type or which type. Could you kindly help me to solve the problem.

  37. JanetMay 19, 2015 at 3:04 pm #

    We currently have warm T8 fluorescent fixtures throughout our building which we will need to change out. I have not seen any reference to color in the above discussion. Are there “warm” or “soft” color LED tubes (as opposed to “cool white” or “natural”)?

    • GregMay 19, 2015 at 3:15 pm #

      Thanks for the message Janet. The colors are similar to fluorescent. In general the color of LED tubes ranges from 3000K Warm White to 5000K Daylight (and one or two options at 6500K Daylight Plus).

  38. Randy CollinsMay 25, 2015 at 10:29 pm #

    When the led eventually needs replacing in 50K hours or so is type B or C significantly less expensive to replace? I am really looking for the best lifetime cost through multiple replacements. I understand that some LED T8 replacements basically need to be totally replaced/reinstalled when they eventually need replacing.

    • GregMay 26, 2015 at 6:57 am #

      Hi Randy,

      While Type C is the most efficient LED T8 option, the upfront costs are too high right now to compete with Type B in life-cycle cost. The lowest lifetime cost would be Type B, because there is only one thing to replace – the LED T8 bulb itself. Type A and Type C both have a ballast and LED driver, respectively, which is another thing to replace and also requires trouble-shooting to confirm it is the bulb or the ballast/driver that is out.

  39. William ReedJune 11, 2015 at 2:45 pm #

    Please excuse my ignorance. I am the handyman at our local community clubhouse (volunteer) (non profit, 501c3) but I am not all ‘that’ handy. We are working with our local power company on incentives. The highest incentive is replacing the ballast and tubes, lower incentive for replacing the entire fixture. We have 14 4-bulb T-12 fixtures in place now. I think (from reading your excellent article) the type B replacement method would be best, and I can get expert help to assist me at no cost. I don’t know what products to look at to figure out a total cost. Is it possible to give me a rough estimate on materials (emphasis on ‘ROUGH’, not holding you to an exact number, and you have that in writing now). Or, is replacement even possible on T-12’s.

  40. James ChiaJune 15, 2015 at 8:33 pm #

    I am using 4 ft fluorescent fixture with 3350 lm, can you please advice me how many lumen of the LED tube I have to replace to get the same brightness ? Thanks

  41. fred collinsJune 17, 2015 at 6:41 am #

    i am a facility director at a private high school. i just took this job recently and was shocked at the lighting i found in the building. we still have t-12’s and many still have the magnetic ballast. since i have arrived we are using t-8’s but also we have to replace with instant start ballast. as we transition i believe the best choice for us is to go to the type A led bulbs. i am talking 30 class rooms at 12-4 light fixtures a room, plus offices, halls, etc. we are on a tight budget. my only hope is that i can find instant start ballast at a reasonable price, that will at least let us transition to t-8 fluorescent(which i have many i have found at a reasonable price through auctions) and then in time to the type A led bulbs. the ballast for me to change is not a big deal. its simple and takes little time. just wondering cost of type A bulbs compared to B and C.

    • PremierJune 22, 2015 at 2:43 pm #

      Hello Fred – did you get our email? We’d be glad to run some numbers for you to figure out what option would work best at your school.

  42. William ReedJuly 1, 2015 at 9:31 pm #

    As a follow-up to my post on 6/11/15. I contacted Premier, for our local Sula MT community clubhouse. We settled on Option B. I ordered 50 tubes, to cover 16 different fixtures. To say I was nervous about the install is putting it lightly.
    Well, it took me 8 hours, working alone. Toward the end, it was taking about 15 minutes to remove the old fixture, remove the ballasts, set up the wiring, and replace the fixture. Premier told me it was simple, my electrician told me it was simple, but I didn’t believe it. Well, I was wrong. It is simple. If I were to do it again, I think I could narrow it down to 5 hours. Premier was very helpful, shipping was very quick, and they responded quickly to my questions, either by e-mail, or on the phone. Much gratitude and thanks to them.
    As a side note, those tubes are tough. I dropped one off the ladder, probably 6 feet up. Didn’t break, and worked just fine. Good product.

  43. LRJuly 4, 2015 at 5:36 pm #


    I have replaced almost all of the bulbs in my house to LED. I only have two rooms left, but am having difficulty finding the bulbs. One of the rooms has a fixture with eight G9 bulbs. I have found LED bulbs for this fixture, but they are not bright enough, or dimmable.
    For the other other room, I have two troffers with two FB031/841 bulbs, each. I have not found any LED replacement bulbs in this size. The troffers are two feet by two feet. Can I modify my troffers to accommodate one, or two, two feet straight T8 bulbs, or even the Ubend bulbs? I would like to do a Type B setup, but am open to a Type C setup. I would like to have the option to dim the bulbs if at all possible. I only need about four bulbs, so I would not be able to special order in bulk. By the way, the two troffers only have one bulb each, at the moment. I have not bothered adding another bulb to each troffer because I get plenty of light as is.

    Thank you for your time and have a great day!

    • PremierJuly 8, 2015 at 8:29 am #


      Sorry for the late response on this – we did some searching for LED Ubends that would replace FB031/841 bulbs, but it seems at this point there are no LED Ubends that are that size.

      We do have Dimmable LED G9 Bulbs. That will link you to the store. Note that the dimmable and non-dimmable are the same price – the dimmable produces 350 lumens and the non-dim produces 430 lumens.

  44. Jay MacDonaldJuly 6, 2015 at 4:12 pm #

    I have inexpensive Lithonia florescent fixtures in my garage and office. The newer ones in the garage cause severe radio interference (static) on my radios. I believe part of this is from the bulbs and part from the ballast.

    Do LED bulbs cause radio static? Do the drivers cause static? Will LEDs reduce the static if used with existing ballasts?

    • PremierJuly 7, 2015 at 2:32 pm #

      Hello Jay,

      Thanks for your message. 99% sure the cause of the radio interference is the ballasts. We have had customers have this issue and then when they cut out the fluorescent ballasts and retrofit to Type B LED T8 tubes, it works fine.

      We haven’t seen any evidence that Type C with the LED driver would cause radio static. But just to be sure, go with Type B LED tubes.

  45. JohnJuly 25, 2015 at 2:11 pm #

    Hey, Wonderful article, Thanks.
    For retrofit purposes, I am looking for a 360 degree B type LED 4 feet. What is the biggest angle covered.
    Do these exist?
    Thanks John

    • PremierJuly 27, 2015 at 9:01 am #

      Hi John,

      Thanks for your message. There are no options for Omni/360° LED T8 bulbs. So your best bet would be a Type B with glass construction, particularly one of the two options below:

      Keystone 4′ LED Tube – 240° Beam Angle

      Green Creative 4′ LED Tube – 180° Beam Angle

      Any questions about the above products or anything else, just let us know!

  46. DennisJuly 27, 2015 at 4:25 am #

    I have recently bought some led tubes to replace the existing florescents. I brought some from one distributer and was told to remove the ballast and starter. I bought some from a different distributer and was told to remove the ballast but replace the old starter with a new LED starter. Could you please tell me what the difference is and if the tubes were interchanged would that cause a problem?

    • PremierJuly 27, 2015 at 9:13 am #

      Hi Dennis,

      Thanks for messaging in. By starter, are we talking about the sockets/tombstones?

      When replacing your fluorescent T8’s with Type B LED T8 tubes (the ones that bypass the ballast like you purchased), you will always need to cut out and remove the ballast and hook the LED tubes directly to the line voltage. So the only thing you may need to switch out and replace other than the tubes themselves is the shunted sockets – since LED tubes are bi-pin you need a non-shunted socket/tombstone. We provide non-shunted sockets with every LED tube purchased so this isn’t a problem.

      For further details on install you can check out the Type B LED T8 Tube install guide.

      Anything else just let us know!

  47. nigel cockellAugust 3, 2015 at 10:10 am #

    we have a shop with low ceilings and have 8 twin 5 foot lamps with diffusers using the T8 tubes and our main reason for changing to led is heat.
    Can you give me a price for 16tubes and tell me what I need to convert lamps to led
    and costs involve

    • PremierAugust 3, 2015 at 10:16 am #

      Hi Nigel,

      Thanks for the comment. All you would need is 16 of the 5′ Type B LED Tubes to replace your existing fluorescent tubes and ballasts. Just take out the fluorescent tubes, cut out the ballasts and wire the LED tubes directly to the non-shunted socket we provide (to connect to line voltage). Total would be $559.20 – $34.95 each.

      5 Foot LED Tubes

      The problem is these LED tubes are designed for use in the United States and judging by your email address, you are located in the UK? For this reason and the expensive nature to ship lighting out of the country, unfortunately I’m not sure we can help you.

  48. Kenneth LynesAugust 18, 2015 at 3:25 pm #

    I have several 4 lamp 4′ troffers in my basement room and I am considering replacing the lamps with led lamps and removing the ballasts to avoid future work on the fixtures when the ballasts fail. They are old style ballasts and not the newer electronic ones since the fixtures are about 40 years old now. They were installed around 1975.
    I have observed that led lamps installed directly on the 120v a/c power are installed for your lamps by wiring the line voltage at only one end of the lamp to the non-shunted sockets. It seems to me that I have seen wiring diagrams for installing other led lamps (also 48″ in length) that had the 120v a/c applied to the opposite ends of the fixture with both sockets being shunted. Seems this could be an issue at some point in time when installing any kind of replacement led lamp. Am I correct or have I incorrect information about type B led lamps?
    I think the other lamp manufacturer was a brand such as Green Technology or a similar such name. It confuses me some. I am an electrician and I hope that these lamp wiring diagrams will be the same for each type of led lamp so that it will avoid unfortunate things in the future.
    Is there only one type of led lamp (fluorescent replacement) for each situation such as type A, B, and C or those your designations only?
    I also seem to be able to assume now that a 1600 lumen led lamp installed into a standard 4′ troffer will put out similar light to a f48t12cw lamp. I would replace the cool whites with 5000k led lamps to make sure of enough light. I am told that I might only need 2 of the 4 lamps to give the same light output. Do you agree?
    Thanks, Ken

    • PremierAugust 19, 2015 at 7:39 am #

      Hello Kenneth,

      With the Type B LED Lamps that bypass the ballast, only one end is hot. That is the non-shunted end. The other side is shunted. All bypass ballast LED tubes we have encountered (and sell) are wired in this way, so you should be okay.

      Regarding if there is one type of LED T8 lamp replace for certain situations – some cases you will have options. Most people go Type B to bypass the ballast. Some go Type A for a quicker install. Type C is the most efficient and while costs are getting lower for Type C, it is still generally only used when people when 0-10v dimming with their LED tubes.

      Most 18W LED tubes will produce 1900+ lumens. Compared to fluorescent that is lower but as you know, fluorescent is not directional like LED. LED T8 tube lighting is more directed and therefore the actual light output is greater. Also, when retrofitting fluorescent fixtures with LED, some people do install less tubes. I would look at the Maxlite 18W LED Tube or the Maxlite 22W LED Tube in 5000K. The 18W is standard and the 22W is the high output.

      Any questions just let me know. Thanks!

  49. Dan VoegeliOctober 26, 2015 at 9:54 am #

    With the Type “C” conversion, is a remote driver required for each “fixture”? i.e., We have a number of 4-tube fixtures located throughout our facility. Assuming we choose type “C”, will a remote drive be required for each fixture or is sharing among fixtures allowed?

    • PremierOctober 26, 2015 at 12:10 pm #

      Hi Dan,

      Yes, you would need one 4-lamp remote driver for each of those fixtures. Basically the same way you need a fluorescent ballast for each fixture. I suppose it’s possible if the fixtures were close together and they were two-lamp each, that you could run the tubes in both fixtures on one LED remote driver. But in most cases I don’t think that’d be the practical solution.


  50. KnickOctober 28, 2015 at 6:31 am #

    When switching to a LED T-8 that runs on line voltage, are the tombstones rated for 277V?

    Thank you

    • PremierOctober 28, 2015 at 8:31 am #

      Can’t speak for every LED T8 tube that runs on line voltage but all the line voltage LED T8 lamps we sell work on 120-277V.

  51. BrodyNovember 2, 2015 at 10:06 am #

    Hello there I’m interested in changing my light in my shop currently have 26 t12’s at 8ft lenghth was wondering ifif its economical to change to t8led … Or just go with the regular t8 s…. Shop is 10years old and it is 60′ by 60′ t8 or t8led come in 8footers? If so will I still need 26?

  52. TomNovember 17, 2015 at 1:40 pm #

    I installed the T8 LED’s (50) in our shop and the only thing that had to be done was remove the ballast’s and wire direct. We used the daylight color and are very happy with the results. Also changed out the 4′ blubs (50) with the T8’s /22W / clear cover and they brightened the area by double the old T12 bulbs. VERY HAPPY WITH THE RESULTS !!!
    The next LED’s will be with replaceable drivers so minor repairs can be made when needed. The tomb stones should be able to handle 110V-480V.

  53. DaleNovember 17, 2015 at 7:07 pm #

    Remolding kitchen, over the kitchen island needs increase lighting. I currently have 2 hanging pennant lights. Looking to go with a hanging decorative LED which I can hang using jack chain. Recommendation on fixture and which LED tubes to get as close to daylight levels or greater?… getting old

  54. bradDecember 3, 2015 at 7:51 pm #

    what is the volts and amps needed to run the t8 type C , I want to make my own power supply that will not make radio static ….
    I would also like something in this size for 12 volts DC

  55. JohnDecember 9, 2015 at 10:44 pm #

    I have the same situation as Brody dated Nov 2nd. Could I get a reply to the question on replacing 8′ t-12s with led’?

  56. ChadDecember 23, 2015 at 7:48 pm #

    I just bought at Lowes 2 T-8 LED Bulbs to replace my Standard T-8 Bulbs in my work shop. as soon as I installed the first bulb the whole light went out and I ca not get it to come one with the LED’s or my old T-8! What the hell happened/ Did I just ruin my light fixture. I replace all my lights in my home with LED and love them, but there should be a warning on the T-8 Replacement bulb if they are not compatible with all T-8 fixtures. I just spent $30.00 on 2 useless bulbs and my fixtures are shot!

  57. ralph stroudJanuary 4, 2016 at 12:53 pm #

    I have seven (7) eight foot fluorescent with two T5W lamps per fixture 120V
    I also have nine (9) eight foot HO fluorescent two lamp fixture 120V
    all in cold temperature weather.. How should I handle this??
    TKS Ralph

  58. PeteJanuary 6, 2016 at 1:38 pm #

    I live in a block of flats with an undercroft car park for 40 cars. It’s a one way system. Cars and pedestrians activate movement sensors which turn the lights on and off many times per day. The temperature ranges from 0 degrees to 25 degrees C. We’re having a debate over replacing the tubes with T5 or LED tubes. Any advice?

  59. NoelJanuary 13, 2016 at 3:43 pm #

    A local public hall has a number of emergency lights all maintained and driving flourescent tubes. We find each time the lighting operates (usually due to a power cut) a high pecentage of the flourescent lights do not work in normal mode (although they do still operate on power failure (ie on batteries)).
    I am thinking of trying to replace the flouresc tubes with LED in the em luminaires Is this poss. Some are 8ft tubes and some are 2D

  60. Robert TalleyJanuary 24, 2016 at 2:14 pm #

    A bit confused. I have some GE 93135 retrofit bulbs. Can they be wired to 120volt line current? Thanks

    • PremierJanuary 25, 2016 at 8:42 am #

      GE does not make any line voltage-compatible LED T8 tubes. Only Type A that uses the existing fluorescent ballast and Type C that uses LED remote drivers.

  61. Adam TFebruary 7, 2016 at 2:23 am #

    I just replaced the fluorescent T8 tube in my garage with a LED T8 Tube. Really happy with the results

  62. Max DonofrioFebruary 9, 2016 at 4:01 am #

    I work in a charity and we are planing on changing the T8 fluoresent light tubes for LED light tubes. The model of T8 installed at the moment is Osram L36W/840 acording to the description of the tube it produces 3300 lumens. It will be right to change it for a LED tube of 2100 lm (18 watts) or it will be better to change them for a LED tube of 3000 lm (27 watts) and my last question is how can it know what type of tube (A,B,C) do we have.
    Thanks for your time.

    • PremierFebruary 9, 2016 at 10:43 am #

      Hi Max,

      One thing to always remember is that LED despite having lower total lumens is far more efficient than fluorescent lumens. The fluorescent lights inside the fixture which is wasted light. The LED is more directed so the light is delivered more efficiently. I would expect with the 18W 2000 lumens that you will find the light levels to be pretty similar to the fluorescent. We also carry a 22W 2600 lumen LED T8 tube that would blow the fluorescent away.

      Regarding Type A/B/C. You are using fluorescent now which is neither. Type A would be getting an LED T8 tube that runs on your existing ballast – you simply switch out the lamp. In this case your LED T8 needs to be compatible with the ballast you have, otherwise it won’t work. What most people do however is Type B where you cut out the existing ballast and wire the LED T8 direct to line voltage. This ensures no compatibility issues and is more efficient, although initial takes longer.

      One issue – it appears you are in Ireland and we do not ship cross country (we are in the United States).

      • MaxFebruary 11, 2016 at 4:22 am #

        Thank you very much for your answer, is hard to get a respond sometimes. I will recomend your site to some friends in US in case they need to change their light.

  63. tom appelFebruary 12, 2016 at 9:53 pm #

    I built a train depot for storing and servicing ‘G’ scale trains for my backyard RR. I would like to light the building with four foot LED lighting – the brighter the better (4000 to 5000k?). The building is 20′ x 26′ with a nine foot ceiling. The walls and ceiling are drywalled white. I provided six receptacle boxes in the ceiling. If I want 50 to 75 foot candles on the floor, what fixture and how many should I purchase to make this happen? I have been looking at the LS4 series fixtures. Is this the correct fixture?
    Tom Appel,, 715-423-2226

  64. Larry kupcyykFebruary 17, 2016 at 1:13 am #

    Our ice arena currently has 40 t8 4′ fixtures. Each fixture has 6 bulbs and are dual switching. Use the dual switching when running only half of the bulbs for practice lights and all of the lights for games. Getting to the point of having to replace ballast often. Would like to upgrade and get rid of the ballast altogether.
    Would we need to replace all 6 bulbs in the fixture or are LED’s brighter and we could get by with two bulbs on each side.
    Also if the bulbs run cooler it is less heat radiating onto oh our ice.
    We also have 12 t8 two bulb fixture lights and 12 t8 four bulb lights.

  65. PaulFebruary 27, 2016 at 11:49 am #

    When when replacing T-8’s with Type “A” LED, is there an increase in the life of the existing ballast?

    • PremierFebruary 29, 2016 at 8:23 am #

      Manufacturers we have asked have said that no, there is no difference in ballast life regardless of if it is operating LED T8 lamps or fluorescent T8.

  66. JamesMarch 21, 2016 at 1:54 pm #

    We are looking to replace the tubes in 3 Seletti Neon lights with LED tubes, they are hanging as pendants. Currently they are T8 tubes with ballast in a custom fitting and I think the ballasts are conflicting with each other as all three have blown components (fuse and capacitor) at the input to the ballast circuit. Does that sound right ? Do you know if we can find led replacements with a 360degree viewing angle?


  67. michaelApril 18, 2016 at 11:31 am #

    is there a UL listed, T12HO 8′ LED replacement?

  68. Alex GoresinApril 23, 2016 at 5:08 am #

    Hi, very interesting reading. LEDs definitely seem to be the way of the future.
    We have a large number of dimmable LFLs an would like to replace them with LEDs, only thing is, they have the dimmable fittings which have the power lead and also the dimming lead, 0-10VDC I think it says. Is there a straight replacement LED available?

  69. RyanJuly 7, 2016 at 2:23 pm #


    I am searching for answers about the two different options of the direct wire LED bulbs. I know there are some that are wired on one end and some wired on both. What are the pros and cons of each? Which way is the market/companies converting to LED’s trending?

    • PremierJuly 7, 2016 at 2:26 pm #

      Hi Ryan,

      Thanks for the question. Almost all LED T8 tubes you see are single-ended. Hot on one end and neutral on the other (basically just acts like a lamp holder). It is considered safer and less likely to be shocked.

  70. JamesJuly 9, 2016 at 9:49 pm #


    These lamps are 240V? How can i run them on my car using a 12V battery?

    please guide.


  71. Norm MadsenJuly 28, 2016 at 10:03 am #

    Is it possible to purchase a t8 type B 60 inch LED replacement bulb? We have a display case that is going thru the fluorescent bulbs every month, and it is a real expense and bother.

  72. Norm MadsenJuly 28, 2016 at 10:04 am #

    Is it possible to purchase a t8 type B 60 inch LED replacement bulb? We have a display case that is going thru the fluorescent bulbs every month, and it is a real expense and bother. there are three bulbs in this case, and they are not the bright white type, maybe 2700 or so.

  73. HenryAugust 18, 2016 at 6:27 pm #

    I just purchased two 24″ LED replacement T8s. When I put them in the fixture, they flash like crazy, when on at all. (They are shorter than the fluorescent bulbs I want them to replace, so rotten connections). My question is, if I try bypassing the old ballast to see if it will solve the flickering problem, might I kill my new LEDs?

  74. HAROLD FURSTAugust 30, 2016 at 9:45 am #

    I have 6 flourescent fixtures in my home office. They all have 4 ft. T12 bulbs…They are 40 watt each..

    What LED replacements do I have to buy to get at least 40 watt equiv or more???

  75. John AndersonOctober 30, 2016 at 4:52 am #

    I purchased 2 complete LED shop lights from Costco about a year ago.
    About 2 months ago, 1 (the one i use the most) started not coming on right away and flickered or was dim.
    Now it is dead.
    No where near the life span advertised.

  76. Eric HahnNovember 22, 2016 at 10:30 am #

    Once the LED is installed to direct voltage what it somebody at a later time has it go out and puts a regular T8 back in. Will it explode or pop. Just curious if there is any danger with putting the wrong lamp in the fixture.

    • PremierNovember 27, 2016 at 9:56 am #

      The fluorescent (or Type A LED T8) will burn out quickly. Whether it explodes, I haven’t heard anything like that. But when you get a Type B LED T8 (wired to direct voltage) you get a sticker to put on the fixture that clearly states the fixture has been modified to take direct wire LED T8 lamps.

  77. Jerry BoyNovember 26, 2016 at 12:20 am #

    How can I know if my LED T8 Tube is type A, type B, or type C?

    • PremierNovember 27, 2016 at 9:57 am #

      Type A is otherwise known as ballast compatible, Type B is direct wire/ballast bypass, and Type C is known as Remote/External LED Driver. Wherever you buy these, the seller should be pretty clear about what type you are dealing with. If you bought this at a local store (a Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc) it is 99% that you have a Type A that works on the existing ballast.

  78. Keith SlatteryDecember 12, 2016 at 1:29 pm #

    I have 11-8′ florescent fixtures over three bays in my large garage on three circuits. Each fixture has two tubes. Use is intermittent therefore offsetting overall energy costs. While the lumen level is brilliant for woodworking and automotive work in there, the ballasts make an irritating hum. I am considering replacement with 8′ Type B LED tubes with the R17B base. I have noted a large difference in costs for the replacement tubes (and lumen output), from average $20 per tube to $60. Is there a substantial difference in quality over this price range? What are the arguments for opting for the upper end of this cost spectrum? Are there certain brands that are known for reliability? Thanks!

  79. Reginald DavisDecember 17, 2016 at 1:44 pm #

    Hello Premier, I built and wired my own home 47 years ago. I have 9 of 2-tube/4 ft T8 fixtures, 10 of linear 1-tube/4 ft T8, and 9 of 2 ft T12. All changed to electronic ballasts 15 to 20 years ago. All of 4 ft T8 are 6500 Kelvin. All of 2 ft T12 are 5500K +or-. Currently, one of the 2 ft T12 is dead. I would like to discover the friendliness of T8 LED lighting using this one fixture. I would bypass ballast. My experience with 6500K is very pleasurable and through the years I have discarded all tubes of lesser K. I would like to change to T8 LED as my current lamps expire. Is 6500K available yet with T8 LED? If not, is it anticipated? Vancouver BC location. Thank you.

  80. steve reinoehlMarch 4, 2017 at 7:05 pm #

    i have 12 8ft 4 bulb fluorescent lights in my shop, when i turn them on my radio reception (fm) is lost. can i just switch to led bulbs using the existing fixtures or do i need to change out the entire units?

  81. robert smithMarch 15, 2017 at 5:10 pm #

    Our church has approximately 44 recessed 1 lamp fixtures with parabolic louvers. The lamps are F40T12 with 120V 2 lamp magnetic ballasts wired in tandem in most cases. The control for these fixtures is single pole on-off switches.The system has operated for 25 years at about 6 hours per week. Is there an LED retrofit scenario the would make sense considering 50K nominal lamp life and pay back on investment? How much energy would be saved over the existing system monthly? What system and lamp type would you recommend? Would there be any maintenance safety issues for non-technical personnel after the system is installed?

  82. Michael GreeneMarch 15, 2017 at 6:41 pm #

    Consult a certified electrician. The ballast and lamps are discharging EMI and in turn cause your radio reception to suffer. There are retrofit T8 LED tubes that are line voltage and will require some minor rewiring to and from the tombstones/lampholder pin sockets. Depending on your lighting requirements, the cost difference between replacing fixtures vs lamps and rewiring could negate each other. Unless of course you have a relative that’s in the trade. Hope this helped.

  83. LarryJune 10, 2017 at 9:25 am #

    Is there a difference in light output between the A, B, C or D lights?

    • PremierJune 12, 2017 at 8:40 am #

      They all have varying wattages and light levels. Type A’s are largely dependent on the ballast factor (low, normal, or high) of your existing fluorescent ballast. 4′ Type B lamps come anywhere from 11.5W to 18.5W (1800-2600 lumens). Type C there are fewer options but lumens are generally in the low to mid 2000’s on 4′ GE Type C lamps. Type D again is like Type A in that it can be dependent on the existing ballast.

  84. LarryJune 12, 2017 at 5:02 pm #

    After a little more digging I saw that the only choices in the 4′, 6500K, 15W lamps were 1900 lumens and the 18W lamps at 2,000 lumens. I couldn’t find any 2600 lumen lamps.

    Is 2000 Lumen the best I am going to find?

  85. KenJune 13, 2017 at 10:55 pm #

    I have six 4ft T12 fixtures in my kitchen providing indirect lighting. I checked on YouTube and and rewiring and removing the ballast the fixtures to a Type B installation (direct wire/ballast bypass) look do-able. My questions are is it worthwhile to do T12 to T8 conversion. Where can get the parts for this change (T8 tombstones, T8 LEDs) or are there LED tubes that will fit into a T12 fixture

    • PremierJune 14, 2017 at 7:44 am #

      Yes, if you have T12 fluorescent you would be converting to Type B LED T8. There is no problem with fit, the lamps are the same length. T12 sockets are non-shunted so often times you don’t need to replace them (unless they are old then it can be worth changing the sockets anyway).

  86. Johnny MiskillOctober 31, 2017 at 12:52 pm #

    okay this explains a little to me.. i bought both the t8 fixtures and LED lights from Walmart.. now keep in mind i bought the fixtures 5x taking them all back because once i got them up add power then would work for about 5 min then pop they went out never to work again . what should i be looking for on the ballset .. i really think Walmart needs to know this because there returning these as fast as they come in

  87. Elayne BaskinNovember 4, 2017 at 6:09 pm #

    Could not find out if the u shaped fluorescents ( two go into each of my “pillow’ white fixtures) in the ceiling of my kitchen and in both kids rooms . ( I have four square-ish fixtures in total)
    I love fluorescents, and they were the brightest lights in my house, but the daylight LED are game changing. I just changed out all the bulbs in my dark home and then the fluorescent fixtures looked dim and yellow, so I wondered if I needed to get all new fixtures or if I could replace the u shaped F.bulbs with daylight LED

  88. MikeJanuary 7, 2018 at 5:05 pm #

    My opinion is… in some situations lumen output, outweighs the savings of electricity and the expense of converting to led. 1 punch from Mike Tyson compared to 10 punches from a child. Hmmmmmmm…….

  89. Vivian ChiuMarch 1, 2018 at 2:27 pm #

    I am currently looking to replace the EIKO TT26/27 Compact Fluorescent to LED . Which brand & type of LED is the best I can use? Thank you.

  90. Ron InjatesJune 28, 2018 at 2:18 am #

    Hi Premier,

    I’ve been researching type B T-8 retrofit lights online. It seems GE is the only manufacturer that recommends a pre-wired tombstone that has fuse protection. This makes me wonder if GE is ahead of the curve and being prudent to have fuse protection, or is there product weak and will fail at the first sign of any line voltage fluctuation?
    Why do no other manufacturers stipulate use of a fuse?
    Thanks for your reply

  91. Eva SaulJuly 13, 2018 at 3:55 pm #

    Hi Premier,
    I have two tube fluorescent lights in my kitchen and 2 circular tube lights in my family room. I would like to change to LED. What are the best type of fittings I should buy to replace these?

  92. DannyAugust 31, 2018 at 2:16 am #

    May I know your T8 18W LED light tube can stand for 60 degree C as I need to install it at high temperature room?



  93. AlSeptember 17, 2018 at 2:29 pm #

    I have 6 outside lights that have ballast in them. They are the round aluminum type. They have Dusk to Dawn sensors on them. I would like to change them to LED. Is it possible to pull the ballast and wire directly to the LED fixture?

  94. AnuarSeptember 20, 2018 at 9:34 pm #

    Kindly advice which LED type are suite with my workplace. FYI, ambient temp on my workplace about 30-50 degree.

  95. Morry KormanOctober 27, 2018 at 7:59 am #

    I have GE florescent undercounter lighting in my kitchen. I had them installed new about 16 years ago. Outside of the usual required bulb replacement they have worked OK. I did replace one fixture down through the years because of a bad ballast. Now I have a scenereo where replacing a single flickering bulb (in a two 2 bulb fixture of total of 24″ length) did not result in ending the flickering. I am wondering whether it might be “cost effective” to replace the entire fixture or perhaps all of the fixtures for newer LED lighting? The existing fixtures are of 2 or 3 different lengths and there are a total of 4 fixtures. Your expertise would be valuable to me. Thanks, Morry

  96. PaulNovember 7, 2018 at 6:44 pm #

    I just changed a 4 foot fluoro tube which had come to its end with a T8 LED tube and I was delighted with the great result. I expected the light to be directional (as is the critical comment that I have heard from some peope) but to look at it working you’d swear it was a fluoro tube. The tube is glowing evenly along its length and circumference (just like a fluoro tube) with no visible LED’s within it. Light output goes in all directions (just like a fluoro tube) and it is also the same color and brightness as the old fluoro tube that it replaced. I bought this tube some time ago and I was waiting for the old fluoro tube to burn out before replacing it but I need not have waited – I should have changed over right away. This was a straight tube swap – just replacing the old starter and the tube with no mod’s to the fitting. It worked straight away and I love it. I’m sold on LED tubes!

  97. Richard MorrisNovember 30, 2018 at 8:15 am #

    I have just replaced 11 4ft fluorescent tubes with OSRAM LED tubes and the electricity consumption has gone up from around 30W per fitting to 100W per fitting

  98. BryanDecember 8, 2018 at 3:03 pm #

    Hi All,

    I’m looking for a warmer LED T8 replacement and wondering if there is a 2200k to 2700k. If anyone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.


    • PremierDecember 10, 2018 at 9:53 am #


      Thanks for the message. 2700K is a bit rare but there is now one LED T8 lamp in 2700K that is available. It is Type A so it uses the ballast (if you have a residential grade ballast, it may not be compatible). Anyway, see below for more info:

      TCP L12T8D5027K95 -> 12W Type A 2700K LED T8

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